UNDERSTANDING GRAINLINES + PATTERN PLACEMENT

The grainline indicates the direction in which the pattern is to be placed on the fabric and cut. The grainline is one of the most important markings on a pattern because it affects how the garment will drape and fit.

Fabric is basically made of thread woven in two directions. Warp and weft threads.

  • Warp threads run up and down.
  • Weft threads run left to right.

1. The lengthwise grainline is drawn parallel to the center front/center back of a pattern.

  • The lengthwise grain doesn't stretch and is frequently used in woven garments.

2. The crosswise grainline is drawn at a 90 degree angle to the center front/center back of a pattern.

  • The crosswise grain has a little more stretch than the lengthwise grain and will usually look fuller.

3. The bias grainline is drawn at a 45 degree angle to the center front/center back of a pattern.

  • The bias grain is where warp and weft threads intersect. The bias grain is the stretchiest.

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