UNDERSTANDING GRAINLINES + PATTERN PLACEMENT
The grainline indicates the direction in which the pattern is to be placed on the fabric and cut. The grainline is one of the most important markings on a pattern because it affects how the garment will drape and fit.
Fabric is basically made of thread woven in two directions. Warp and weft threads.
- Warp threads run up and down.
- Weft threads run left to right.
1. The lengthwise grainline is drawn parallel to the center front/center back of a pattern.
- The lengthwise grain doesn't stretch and is frequently used in woven garments.
2. The crosswise grainline is drawn at a 90 degree angle to the center front/center back of a pattern.
- The crosswise grain has a little more stretch than the lengthwise grain and will usually look fuller.
3. The bias grainline is drawn at a 45 degree angle to the center front/center back of a pattern.
- The bias grain is where warp and weft threads intersect. The bias grain is the stretchiest.